Starter

Long handles and slim blades - reaching between the branches where ordinary scissors can't. Good value, in steel - a great first tool.

Curved handles with room for your whole hand spare your wrist - for cutting back and shaping the crown. Good value, in steel - a great first tool.

A clean cut heals faster than a crushed one - which is why sharp blades matter most in bonsai scissors. Good value, in steel - a great first tool.

The concave blade takes the branch off right at the trunk - the bark grows over the wound and the scar becomes almost invisible. Good value, in steel - a great first tool.

The spherical jaws remove stubs and knobs right at the trunk - leaving a small hollow that heals flat. Good value, in steel - a great first tool.

Short head and long handles - cuts even thick wire effortlessly and without touching the bark. Good value, in steel - a great first tool.

Strong jaws for thick roots - saves your bonsai scissors from the rough work when repotting. Good value, in steel - a great first tool.

The strongest cutter of them all - for trunk and branch sections when the tree is styled more ambitiously. Good value, in steel - a great first tool.

Ridged jaws that grip firmly - for stripping bark for jin and shari and for tightening and loosening wire. Good value, in steel - a great first tool.

Small, pointed blades for leaves and needles - for thinning and leaf cutting, where precision matters more than force. Good value, in steel - a great first tool.

Small, pointed blades for leaves and needles - for thinning and leaf cutting, where precision matters more than force. Good value, in steel - a great first tool.

Small, pointed blades for leaves and needles - for thinning and leaf cutting, where precision matters more than force. Good value, in steel - a great first tool.